Mastrioni’s

At first glance you wouldn’t think that an upscale restaurant located in the same strip mall as Subway and Golden Spoon along a not-too-busy road in Summerlin would fare well. But judging from my visit one Sunday night, I might be wrong. There aren’t many non-casino, white linen, restaurants in the area (I can’t recall any others, as a matter of fact) but by 7pm the place was hopping with the 40+ age bracket Summerlin crowd.

Not only is the location deceiving, so is the interior. I wasn’t expecting much, but upon entering I felt like I wasn’t in the suburbs anymore. Places in this ‘hood just don’t have a sleek, modern, and elegant feel — the kind that you expect from the Strip. You can tell they spend a pretty penny decorating. It wasn’t done by any amateur, that’s for sure.

Despite the upscale atmosphere, it is a family-owned and operated business. The owner/executive chef hails from Brooklyn, with ancestors from Italy, so expect Italian with a New York influence.

I ordered one of their specials, a seafood risotto ($30) full of squid, scallops, mussels, and shrimp. There was rarely a bite without seafood. Unfortunately, it was bland and forced me to do what I rarely do in any restaurant — reach for the salt shaker. I had to use it several times to liven up the dish. The portion size was huge as it filled up a whole plate, but it also lacked the creaminess of a great risotto.

If you’re a fan of chicken parmagiana, the one here is bound to please with a zesty and full bodied sauce. I can’t remember having a better version anywhere in town. It was accompanied by a huge side of spaghetti, which made for some great left overs the next day.

They also have a kid’s menu with a few pasta options.

Service was spotty with our waiter disappearing after we ordered and not returning until we were done and ready for the check. He later apologized, informing us that they were understaffed that night. The apology was appreciated, but it couldn’t salvage a lackluster dining experience.

3 Stars

3330 S Hualapai Way
Las Vegas, NV 89117
(702) 367-7511

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