What happens when you dine at a fairly nice restaurant when you’re underdressed? In the case of Panevino you get poor service and a forgettable dining experience. A spontaneous dinner plan for my wife, kid and myself resulted in us coming here after our first few options were busy. I’ll admit I looked like crap with old jeans with holes and a raggedy flannel shirt. That slightly homeless look lead to our server directing us to the back page of the wine list with all the cheap stuff with “the items we would be comfortable with.” I know I looked bad but I thought I looked better than the guy at the bar wearing a track suit.

The meal started out ok with two small crab cakes, breaded on the outside and topped with two delicious sauces. Dinner took a sharp turn south with the hummus rolls. It sounded interesting and even looked good. Unfortunately, it had an odd smokey flavor and an aftertaste that had me reaching for my wine and bread to cleanse my palate. My wife had the filet. Laying on a bed of mashed potatoes and smothered in a thick mushroom sauce, it wasn’t the best grade of beef. For my entree I went with the short rib risotto. The deep and savory flavor of the chunks of beef were satisfying, but the grains of rice had a soft, mushy overcooked texture. Desserts were slightly better. They get points for sending out a complimentary strawberry shortcake. Two layers of light, crispy puff pastry sandwiched a layer of strawberries. We also followed it up with a chocolate souffle that came out unusually quick. Baked to order? Probably not, but the rich, dense, chocolatey dessert with chocolate gelato wasn’t bad. Any dessert overloaded with chocolate will typically get a positive reaction from me.

The place is romantic and intimate with a nice view of the airport and the Strip in the background. Unfortunately, the food wasn’t on par with the atmosphere and the service made the experience even less enjoyable. If I ever return it will most likely be to eat at their cafe for lunch.

2 Stars

246 Via Antonio Ave
Las Vegas, NV 89119
(702) 222-2400

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