While other restaurants market themselves as being different, Bazaar Meat delivers the goods. With a massive menu — physically heavier than most and with more variety of items than other steakhouses — this place really is unique. As soon as I learned their opening date at the new SLS hotel and casino I snagged reservations for our party of four. I’m typically weary of new restaurants, but as a fan of Jose Andres I had to give it a shot on opening night.
From beginning to end our meal was outstanding. To start, a dozen oysters ($34) — six medium sized, briny and meaty Paradise oysters and six small, more mild Kusshi oysters. There are four types of tartares on the menu. The classic ($24) is prepared tableside and served with parker house rolls. Don’t be afraid to make yourself a steak tartare slider, I did and it was fantastic.
The list of starters is where Andres’ influence is most evident with items like cotton candy foie gras, tacos, chicharron, and croquetas. The dish that jumped out at me, though, was the s’mores ($30). Four to an order. Each with wafer thin graham crackers sandwiching slivers of chocolate, velvety smooth and rich foie, and torched and blistered hunks of marshmallow. Try to stay composed after eating one. It’s impossible. They’re so good you’ll be banging the table or letting some expletives fly out of shear amazement. They are sweet, so next time I might consider getting them as a dessert.
Side dishes are delicious as well. Andres takes a playful jab at Joel Robuchon’s pomme puree with his own rendition of mashed potatoes ($15) with a menu description that reads, “butter, butter, more butter, some potatoes.” On the lighter side are the Brussels sprouts petals ($12), served with grapes, apricots, lemon air, and lemon puree. My favorite side was the baby corn ($13). Grilled and topped with mayo, chile piquin, and popcorn powder it’s the perfect combo of heat and sweetness.
Our group shared the Spanish-style bone-in rib eye ($80/lb) from Washugyu Ranch, Oregon. It’s cooked on their Josper grill (part oven, part grill. Google it. I had to and it looks cool.) using charcoal and grape leaves, giving it plenty of smokiness. It isn’t cheap at $80 a pound. Our steak came in at 3.13 pounds, which equals an empty wallet at the end of the night. But, it’s one of the best I’ve had in town.
Desserts are on the small side. They’re about the size of single serving buffet desserts. We ordered ten ($25) consisting of five different types served in a cute bakery-style box. The order: dark chocolate and olive oil cream puff; dark chocolate and aged rum cake; caramelized puff pastry with bacon, strawberries and cream; milk chocolate peanut, and caramel tart; and caramelized puff pastry with chocolate, caramel and sea salt. All were great, particularly the dark chocolate cake and the bacon and strawberry puff pastry.
Service was exceptional all night. Our server (formerly of L’Atelier) and busser offered great recommendations and checked in frequently to make sure all of our needs were met. The only negative is that their dessert menu didn’t list all ingredients for the dishes. My friend, who has a nut allergy, reacted to hazelnuts in the dark chocolate and aged rum cake forcing her to rush home after dinner for allergy medicine. Luckily, she was fine and we had a fantastic meal. Bazaar Meat might be the new kid on the block, but in my book they’re already one of the top three steak houses in Vegas.
5 Stars
SLS Las Vegas Hotel and Casino
2535 S. Las Vegas Blvd
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 761-7610
