A good steakhouse in the ‘burbs is rare, so chef Sam Marvin’s Echo and Rig can easily lay claim to being one of the best. Located in the perennially empty Tivoli Village, the modern, open two-story space features a butcher shop and bar on the first level and the main dining room and patio on the second.
The menu is dominated by appetizers and small plates. The best of the bunch might be the portobello fries ($9.80) with their crispy, crunchy fried exterior. If you want more fried food, try the lamb cigars ($8.10) too. A thin, crispy egg roll-like wrapper covers a savory lamb mixture and is accompanied by a tzatziki sauce. Less successful was an excessively oily gratin ($5.90) full of caramelized onions, roasted pumpkin squash, sage and gruyere. You may want to avoid the steak tartare ($8.10) as well. Not only is it the least appetizing looking dish there, the mushy texture made it doubly unappealing.
Craving a salad? They’ve got some good ones, like a kale salad ($8) with baby yellow beets, toasted hazelnuts, goat cheese and a citrus vinaigrette (we subbed arugula for the kale). If you want one with a little more substance, their arugula salad comes with plenty of prosciutto and is large enough for two to share.
As for main entrees, the Spencer steak ($27.70) is a solid choice. It’s a prime grade, center cut rib eye that had a modest amount of charring and a savoriness that was enhanced by their mushroom sauce — a rich and earthy accompaniment that surpassed their other complimentary sauces.
Brussels sprouts are all the rage these days, and their version ($8.10) was enhanced with pistachios that added a nice crunch and salinity to the dish. Even better was a grilled summer corn ($5.90) dish showcasing a char and smokiness that reminded me of eating corn on the cob straight from the grill, but without the mess or random kernels stuck in between my teeth.
Not to be overlooked is their butcher blend burger ($12.40) – a great savory and juicy blend of chuck and brisket. Topped with lettuce, tomato, red onions, and the optional sharp cheddar cheese, it’s a simple burger that’s well proportioned and executed beautifully.
They don’t have a kid’s menu, but were happy to strip down their roasted chicken sandwich ($12) to accommodate my son’s tastes — chicken and cheese on ciabatta.
Prices are reasonable for their location and while it’s on the higher end of the spectrum of what suburbanites may want to pay off strip, the solid and safe menu makes it a sure bet for most diners.
4 Stars
Tivoli Village
440 S Rampart Blvd
Las Vegas, NV 89145
(702) 489-3525
