Open for less than a year, it’s unfortunate that Daniel Ontiveros left, but if the new executive chef can lead the kitchen as well as his predecessor, Therapy will continue to be a quality spot Downtown and is already one of the most beautiful spaces in the area. They spent a pretty penny on this build out and the quality shows. More upscale than surrounding restaurants but still a casual environment perfect for hanging out with friends or for a date night.
I stopped by a couple times earlier in the summer and both visits showcased well crafted dishes where the smaller, shareable plates shined. They have some classic dishes like steak tartare made with hangar steak and chicken and waffles using crisp and airy red velvet waffles to sandwich chunks of breast meat slathered with a red pepper remoulade. Latin inspired dishes can be found on the menu. Street corn charred and smothered with cheese, a lime aioli and a subtle kick from chili peppers makes for some good bites. As do savory, rich, and slightly oily oxtail empanadas or an order of shrimp ceviche and chips.
The most successful items were also the most unique. Fried pig ears were a first for me, but I walked away a fan of its crispy exterior and chewy (almost like biting into a fig) texture. Their “In the gnudi” dish was also a hit. Although slightly sweet with a fig jam and cranberries, spreading the baked ricotta and topping on top of the accompanying walnut crostini created an enticing array of tastes and textures.
Both flatbreads I tried — the summer squash and mixed mushroom flatbreads — were equally outstanding where the buttery, flakey pastry-like crust stood out as the star of both.
The biggest letdowns were the limp popcorn and salty and dry chicken meatballs. Aside from those missteps I’d have to say that Therapy has lots of promise, provided that the changes in the kitchen don’t hold them back. Their upscale gastropub concept is perfect for the ever-improving Fremont East area and yet another reason to pay the area a visit.
4 Stars
518 E Fremont St
Las Vegas, NV 89101
(702) 912-1622
