I’m finally getting around to posting a review for Andiron, Elizabeth Blau and Kim Canteenwalla’s upscale and modern interpretation of a steakhouse. I made a couple visits during the summer and with the executive chef changes (opening chef Joe Zanelli left, Brett Uniss entered and soon departed, and now Micah Waltz leads the kitchen) some dishes I tried are no longer served. Their menu had a mix of traditional steakhouse fare like a steak tartare full of capers, bonded with mustard, and topped with an egg and more modern items such as an artfully plated, refreshingly light yellowtail crudo with preserved kumquats. The burrata and grilled fig made for a decent appetizer too, with the creaminess of the cheese, sweetness of the figs and acidity of tomatoes melding beautifully.
Steaks are as good as you’ll find off the Strip. The Creekstone Farms bone in rib eye was nicely charred. It’s dark exterior glistened with butter and topped with mushrooms. Simply plated on a white dish with a small side of house made steak sauce with notes of tang and spice. It was a good sauce but not needed. The Strauss grass fed filet was just as good. Cooked to a medium rare as ordered and very tender and lean. I didn’t care for the peppers on top or the peppercorn sauce. Again, the steak was good enough to eat without it. The addition of Alaskan king crabs came out to about 2.5 legs worth of crustacean.
Side dishes were a mixed bag. Creamed spinach was too soupy for my liking, while the creamy and rich risotto with white truffles was excellent.
Ending the meals were two desserts. The first was a warm pecan carrot cake, similar to a muffin topped with candied carrots, sitting in a pool of bourbon cream cheese with pineapple currant compote running alongside it. It was a solid rendition, but light on the spice and carrots of a traditional carrot cake. The second dessert was a disappointing warm chocolate pudding cake that was too dense and thick.
Everything about this restaurant is well calculated — from the dishes on the menu to the floral pattern found throughout. While the execution isn’t always perfect, the net result is one of the best steakhouses found off the Strip.
4 Stars
Downtown Summerlin
1720 Festival Plaza Dr
Las Vegas, NV 89135
(702) 685-8002
