*** Note: closed as of June 2017***
There was a lot to like about Standard & Pour after my visit back in early September. The cocktails Gin City ($12) and Handsome Dan ($12) were great. The former being less sweet than the latter. The date and bleu cheese jam ($12) is a must-order. Part savory, part sweet, but all delicious, the jam is topped with bleu cheese and almonds and comes with bacon ciabatta to spread it on. The whole smoked romanesco ($12) is a beautiful dish that is equally bold in flavor with capers, red onions, and golden raisins surrounding the alien-looking broccoli. Another dish I enjoyed was the snail Wellington ($14). The meaty nuggets of snail covered in mushrooms and pastry were rich in garlic. The venison tartare ($18) was a nice riff on a classic with hints of tartness from a cherry mostrada. For dessert, the Fruit Loop panna cotta ($8) was so good we should have gotten two.
On the other hand, there were some missteps. The crispy oysters ($18) were bad. There was a strong fishy aftertaste that no one at our table enjoyed. The sauce in the tongue and cheek agnolotti ($22) was too rich and overpowering. A few drizzles of that red wine demi glace and peppercorn sauce over the pasta would have been enough. But, to have the pasta swimming in a soup of it was not good. The spicy shrimp ($20) was ok. There was nothing really wrong with it, although some might prefer a curry with more spice, but it was a decent enough dish. Finally, there was the wine and cheese sundae ($8). This thing should have never left the kitchen. The blondie that formed the base of the dish was hard as a rock, requiring a fork and spoon to slowly chip away at it. After complaining to the server about the oysters, I didn’t feel like complaining again.
There’s no doubt this restaurant has the potential to be great. It is, after all, run by the same group that has made Carson Kitchen in downtown Las Vegas one of the top restaurants in the city. The passion behind this project already sets it apart from just about everything else in Henderson. With some time and adjustments Standard & Pour can be special.
3.5 Stars
11261 S Eastern Ave
Henderson, NV 89052
(702) 629-5523
